DIY - Custom short shift kit for TH8a or TH8rs shifter.

Here is another DIY mod, this time for the TH8a or TH8rs shifter from Thrustmaster. It is a short shift kit using cheap automotive grade universal shift knob. ****I did not come up with this, I used ideas from YipZone and from SethFrancis

Cost breakdown: (my total cost $17)
$12 - amazon shift knob (pick your own or use the same one) - Cheap Shift Knob

Roughly $5-$6 for a long M6 threaded bolt (m6-1.0 x 100mm) and six pack of M6-1.0 nuts (they did not have a m6 coupling nut so I am replacing that with 4 stacked m6 nuts jammed)

A pen - specific one chosen because I have it already - free.

Disclaimer - I can not be sure the shift knob you pick will work. I picked the one I did because it was cheap, had multiple inserts to fit different sizes and was silver. It also happened to be hollow so the bolt went all the way up inside.

Tools - drill with large drill bit (drill bit just smaller around than the m6 nuts at the tips) gloves, hammer, box cutter (or sharp blade or scissors to cut the pen), a crescent wrench, and two 10mm wrenches.



First you must remove the old shaft - it had a thread lock on it so it will be tight. Remove the shift knob then use a crescent wrench on the flat sides on the top of the old shaft to remove it. It has normal direction threads so turn left to remove.

Measure the height the bottom of the shift knob needs to be off the h plate by threading in just the bolt and holding the shift knob next to it. **IF YOUR SHIFT KNOB IS NOT HOLLOW LIKE MINE YOU WILL HAVE TO CUT THE BOLT LENGTH** Then compare how far in the insert will thread (got it wrong twice forgot to check 7th gear slot first time, then did not measure for the extra depth the insert threads into the shift knob the second) The location of the bottom of the plastic insert is where the bottom nut of the 4 jammed tightened nuts needs to be and marked with fine point sharpie. Again, make sure to measure based on how deep the plastic insert goes into the shift knob.



I had to drill out one of the plastic inserts to be slightly too small for the m6 nuts. This is what the glove is for to protect my hand while holding the insert as I drilled it out. *The plasic insert goes on the bolt then I thread the nuts on the bolt and jam locked them into place (jam locking is tightening them against each other with two wrenches). I then used a hammer and one of the 10mm wrenches to force the plastic insert onto the m6 nuts that were locked into place on the m6 bolt. *sorry no picture of this process* Put one of the extra nuts on the end of the bolt threads and thread it on to protect them, you do not want to hit the threads with a hammer. The M6 nut edges are sharp enough to cut into the insert so that it it solid and the insert does not turn - that is why the insert was only drilled out so far that the m6 nuts would only fit with brute force.





Cut the plastic pen tube to be too long for tightening down the bolt into the shifter. Then slip it on and tighten the bolt down into the shifter without the knob. Verify a good amount of threads are in, but do not bottom out the bolt in the shifter as you want some room for adjustment here. The bolt x-head top made it easy to tighten it down against the pen tube so it was snug.

Then remove the bolt(shaft) from the shifter, set the plastic pen tube aside, and jam the two extra nuts together on the end of the shaft and put a wrench on them so you can hold the bolt securely while tightening down the knob on the plastic insert. The knob should get tight but do not over force it, the insert is just plastic. *sorry no picture of this process* My shift knob goes pretty far over the plastic insert - that is were I messed up the measuring as the shift knob bottom edge would hit the h gate plate and I could not put it in 7th or reverse.


in this image it was actually my second time of not having enough thread length, as you can see there is only a single red line from the first measuring point. In the end there were two red lines sticking out

Now put the plastic pen tube back on the bolt (shaft) and thread it back into the shifter until it is snug against the pen - Tight enough that it won't turn from normal use but not so tight you smash the pen. If you care the orientation of the knob you can cut the pen tube shorter to get this correct.This is why I said to leave it a bit long as there is no need to completely bottom out the bolt into the shifter just get it threaded most of the way in.



Double check that you can get into 7th gear and reverse without the bottom of the shift knob hitting the H-Plate. Cut a new pen tube if you made it too short. Find the sweet spot pen tube length to get the knob strait and the bolt/shaft snug and you are all finished.

The only improvement I need for mine, the pen tube I chose is a little soft. You can see in the very first picture of the completed kit, the bottom is starting to flair out inside the shifter. I raced with it for a good while this morning and it did not budge so for now it seems to be working fine.

Have at it and enjoy a better shifting feeling and a beer..

More Sim Racing - PS4 - T300 and Project CARS - Sold the Spitfire

So I am back at it.. (sim racing that is) with new equipment and a new title... but more importantly my father and I made the joint decision to sell the Team Sex Pistons Triumph Spitfire LeMons race car. It had been sitting in the garage untouched since December 2013 so it was time. A group of younger more enthusiastic guys bought it and I am glad it will continue to be abused and thrashed as we intended. Not going to get sentimental, but I was a bit sad. We had a lot of fun and that was the point.


Good Bye you awesome British hunk of tin scrap - it was fun while it lasted

With the Spitfire sold, there was some extra cash for sim racing stuff... I have a new wheel stand, a TH8a shifter, and new T3PA-Pro pedals on the way. Once they are all setup I will eventually take some pictures and write proper reviews. For now I have to say Project CARS with the T300 wheel is an absolute blast. It is the most realistic racing title to ever be on a console. - Quick clip of me trying to drive the Formula A (Formula 1) car on the famous Spa track..LINK TO VIDEO

Anyways.. life is good.


Wife and I in Sequoia

The rest of the funds normally spent on racing will go towards travel for my wife and I. We recently took a weekend up at the Sequoia National Park, will be going to visit friends in the Cali Bay Area soon, shortly after a trip to visit some family in Colorado, then a cruise to Alaska. All before October this year. Bonus note from Sequoia - we saw some bears and I took a pretty OK photo of one between freaking out..



More to come later!

More LeMons Race Prep - Mini Moke for Thunderhill

It was a hot weekend - lots of wrenching and sweat on Saturday. We got the better seat in to be more comfortable, some brake work done, had pizza, a few beers, and lots more bull shitting around.



The car was running, the brakes worked, and was basically ready for tech.. but then I decided to start taking the cooling system off the car because Mike/Spank had a better radiator to put on. But, well... I did not get very far, it is only half mounted, and the hoses are not hooked up yet. It won't take much more to get it running again. Hopefully Mike can get more done this week, but we always have Friday night at the track. The theme work has not been started yet on the car either... so there is still that. Speaking of theme work, I finally got started on mine.



It began with me reading up on how to make a mascot costume head and the main parts where a cheap hard hat and stiff insulation foam board.. so I bought the foam insulation board, the hard hat, and opted for duct tape over glue because LeMons. I figured, how hard could it really be?



Well I got to work and what a mess.. I did not have the proper tool to cut the foam, which would be an electric hot knife, and used a small hand saw to cut the starting shape. The head of my character is basically big and round.



I knew that the center and widest part of the head needed to be just above my eye level so the hard hat would have to go above it. I cut a hole in the center to fit my head. Following, with absolute detailed precision, I cut some arches to make a frame for the top.



As I started to duct tape the hard hat in place, I thought it would be smart to use some stick shaped objects to hold things in place better.. really not needed but figured, this shit is serious so might as well. It all was then cleanly secured with duct tape.





With the top frame complete, I cut out some more pieces for the bottom and also, with my amazing handy work, securely attached them. Now the frame was done. Mind you this was hours later in humid hot weather, I believed getting to this point would only be 30-45mins.. haha no.





Using the high quality materials at my disposal, whatever scrap was laying around in my father's garage and some more duct tape, the top of the head took form. Things were coming along so nicely, I was in awe of my artistic abilities. (At this point, my back hurt and I was sweating and needed a beer. It was a Lagunitas IPA, which was damn good too. There went 15mins.)



Once stuffed, it was sealed up using exactly measured and placed strips of duct tape.. just look at it.. are you impressed yet? I had to give it a test ride to see how it would work..



Totally freaking rad, am I right? Damn I'm sexy... It takes time and effort to achieve such greatness, but of course it is not complete. The details of the face must be applied and are to be finished over the next few nights after work. To see the costume completed, you will have to check back next week as this is my last post until after the race. Only a few days left!

For now, it's back to the cubicle

My DIY, budget, portable, sim racing set up. Yes, this is a full geeked out post about gaming.

To lay it out in short, this blog post is about my home sim racing (race car gaming) setup. I wanted to show and explain that it does not have to cost a lot (about $400), have to take up a ton of space, nor require the best equipment to own a fun and functional home sim racing setup. If you have no interest in car racing games, then you can just skim through the pictures and maybe watch the video at the end then move on.. cause that is all this post is about. Before we get started, not one of these mods, components, or ideas did I come up with on my own. So get that straight, I am not claiming to have come up with any of this on my own. I just copied what other, more intuitive, gamers came up with and found what works best for me. This is about my full set up as a whole.



Starting with the basics.. I play on a Playstation 3. Not some expensive home built PC gaming rig or even a new PS4 (Don't get me wrong someday I will upgrade to a PS4 or build a nice PC). It is an old PS3 and you can get one of these things for very cheap now.. $200 brand new with a couple games or buy one used somewhere for less. The racing games on this system play at 720p basically (except for Gran Turismo 5 & 6 which is some scaled version of 1080 that is not exactly 1080p). Not quite full HD but trust me it is good enough. The games that I play currently are Gran Turismo 6 and WRC 4 but I also have F1 2011 and Dirt 3. Another good game series for this system is Need for Speed Shift, but I have not tried that yet. WRC 4 is my favorite.. rally is just more fun to me, but everything else is fun shit too. Now, on to the components...



The first and most obvious, the wheel. This is a very important choice for sim racing. There are many different models and brands. What I wanted was force feed back (Wheel pushes back as you drive like a real car), it would work on PS3 & PC, and it did not break the bank. I chose the Logitech Driving Force GT wheel and pedal set (DFGT for short) seen above. They retail for about $149.99, but can be found used for as low as $50, or in my case new but dented box for $99. This wheel is great for the cost, full featured, and 900 degree steering lock (which means it turns around a full turn in each direction like a real car). Biggest weak point on this wheel is the cheap, low resistance, no feel, brake pedal that really should be improved. I will go into the simple ways I improved the brake feel on mine later. First I will start out with an improvement for the wheel that I also consider a component because well, I paid for it.



This component has to do with the second major short coming on the DFGT, which is the tiny shift buttons on the back of the wheel. They can be easily missed when making sharp or quick erratic turns like when drifting or rally racing for exmaple. I tried using the sequential stick on the right of the wheel, which works fine on its own, but then I would be missing my handbrake which is key for rally. I tried different button combos, considered different modding options, even stopped playing WRC 4 until while surfing for DIY mods and sim racing sites, I came across Gran TurGismo. This guy makes these sweet dynamic shifter paddles that work wonders. The sample bellow are the real carbon fiber ones, but I opted for the hard plastic ones with red carbon decals. No bother to me though, the quality and operation are the same plus they cost less.



The kit comes with everything you need and no tools are required. They are held on with some industrial adhesive strips, and as far as I can tell, wont come loose. They feel screwed on to me, but if they ever even slightly come loose, I will drill holes in my wheel and screw them on with the pre-drilled holes, I like them that much. The specific model I have are the latest DPS-200s which are adjustable allowing me to make more room for my fat fingers. These things have been out for years, have been through some serious testing, improved over time, and are just rad... They look sweet, and I highly recommend anyone with a DFGT to seriously consider buying yourself a pair. These shifter paddles where the last addition to my rig and made it feel complete and more enjoyable. I almost dropped the cash to upgrade to a Logitech G27 which costs $250, so he basically saved me over $200 with this product. He even makes cool carbon fiber decals for the DFGT wheels, which I have installed on mine.



Another very important part to a sim racing set up is where and how to mount the wheel. If you have a nice solid desk and play from there, well then you're set. I used to have a wood desk that I set up on and it worked great. Then I hooked up with this great girl, one thing led to another, blah blah blah.. the desk is gone and I live with her. Now that I am not living in a bachelor pad, I had to figure out a way to set this stuff up and be able to store it away. I looked online and saw many creative ways to make a setup, and even more costly purpose built ones. It took many hours searching the net until I came across a guy who found a decent priced solution that required very little modification. A RIDGID Flip Top Portable Work Support. These things range from $20-$30 at hardware stores, are very strong and fold up nicely. There were a few quick and dirty modifications I needed to make to this stand that I will get into later.



Since I often like to play late at night while others are sleeping, I needed a quick cheap way to hook headphones up to my PS3. The volume strait out of the PS3 and the audio out on our TV was just not loud enough. I also messed with a pair of wireless headphones, but they seemed to get interference from the electronics, like the wheel, the PS3's blue tooth, wifi, and who knows what else. So I found myself a headphone amp online for $13.



To get it hooked up to my console and my headphones, it required a couple adapters as the input and outputs are 1/4" stereo jacks.



The PS3 has the ability to broadcast sound out of both the HDMI and the standard audio cables it came with. So I leave the HDMI connected to my TV and connect the standard RCA audio out to an RCA to 1/4" stereo adapter allowing connection to the headphone amp. During the day I just use the TV speakers and at night, I turn the volume down on the TV and use headphones without any loss of sound quality.



Just use some good quality headphones and you're all set.. let's see.. what is left. Oh this is also kind of important. My chair.. yeah so a real laid back racing seat would be really sweet huh? Well, like I said before, I don't have the room for it. So I found myself a very comfortable and stable fold up chair at CostCo for $14..



So what am I looking at here.. $200 for the console, $100 for the wheel, $30 for the shifter paddles, $25 for the stand, and $14 for the chair... lets just call it $400. Get a couple used games and your at a total around $450 (including taxes). This is assuming you already have a TV to setup in front of. Alright, now onto a little DIY modding needed to get this all to work like I wanted..



As you can see the stand has a weight hanging from it and the height adjustment bar is no longer sticking out the bottom. I just fond that the stand needed a little extra weight to feel solid, and hanging a weight off the top bar to the front legs worked the best for me. Naturally I push forward on the wheel and don't pull back much. So hanging the weight in this manor kept it out of the way and is the easiest to remove for storage. This I find is the most ghetto part of my setup. Oh well though, it works. It is a 8lb plastic weight, a rubber bungee cord, and an old belt. Things I had laying around. As for the height adjustment bar.. I just used a saw and cut the extra length off. No need for that thing to go 6FT high and having the extra bit sticking down would get in the way. The pedals rest against the rear leg bar and the rear down bar goes in between the two pedals. Since I started out racing go-karts as a kid, braking with my left foot is natural to me, and so I use my left foot for the brakes.





Since this stand was originally designed to have a free moving top with only a single pin to hold it flat, it was not very solid. So I took the bolts out and used rubber and metal washers to fill the open space between the stand holes, and the table top's holes on the bolt. That way when I tightened them back down it was snug. With the pin out, it takes a good amount of force to fold the top down, so with the pin in place it is very solid. So that is the stand.. not as pretty as a purpose built play seat, but does the trick. I plan to upgrade it a little more as the seating position represents more of a mini van than a sports car.. being that the pedals are not very far back from the wheel. My idea to fix this is to bolt an extension on the top to allow the wheel to be closer to the driver. Also to put something under the stand legs where the pedals are raising that end of the stand and angling the pedals more naturally. This would also add weight and pressure on the stand increasing stability. But it works so well as is, so I am not in a huge hurry to get it done. The video at the end of this blog shows how well this stand works.





Now on to the pedals.. Out of the box these things need some work. They are almost exactly the same ones that came with the older Logitech Driving Force Pro wheel. People have been complaining to Logitech about the crummy brake pedal for years.. yet it is what it is. There is a spring on the pedals, but the resistance is basically only enough to push the pedal back to the top. Some people even report it struggles to do that. So as you can see in the picture above there is a piece of green foam behind the brake pedal, plus there is also a small piece behind the gas pedal. The foam is there to add a gushy resistance that increases the further you push the pedal down. There are other things people use, one of the more popular is a Squash Ball, but I had foam laying around. I cut foam in different shapes and found what worked best. I found that a 90° triangle wedge cut out of the wider green foam with about 2 inches of flat space on top does the trick. It does not have to be perfect. If you need to see an example this video is where I got the idea from Video Link Foam Rubber Wedge .



Now if you want to get an even better feel.. you should add more resistance by either modifying the spring or using bungee cords. I did not like the bungee cord idea as they bound up on me, others really like it so try it yourself. I chose to open up the pedal box and modify the spring. Once I got it open, I found I did not have the right tools in my apartment to open up the spring to create more resistance. So I found the idea seen above and went that route. If you need instructions on how to unscrew and open up the pedal box you can search online. If you are the type that works on electronics, RC cars, or anything of that sort then jump right in it is pretty easy. Just take a few pictures of the inside once it is open, and carefully work the pedals to see how it operates in case it comes apart on you, that way it is easy to get back together. If you are not sure there are pages after pages of instructions online. Just google search driving force brake pedal mods or DFGT brake pedal fix or anything of that sort.



I did not have any fuel hose or rubber tubing on hand, but what I did have was a box of vacuum caps that can be purchased for a few dollars at any auto parts store. I just cut the closed end of the caps off on the smallest ones and slipped it over both ends of the brake spring. This helps the spring fit tight and make it thicker, both add more resistance. I put it back together and liked the results but wanted a bit more.. So I opened it back up and slipped the next size of vacuum caps over the ones already on the spring on each end, then added a third to the end that does not rest inside the brake pedal arm. This end is held by the bottom plate of the pedal box, so you could even just glue rubber to the location the spring rests on the bottom plate and get the same affect. This gave me a great feel combined with the foam. I did not modify the gas pedal spring, but if I open them up again, I will likely just put the smallest vacuum cap on the end of the spring that rests inside the pedal arm. This would give it a snug fit and better feeling when first pressing the pedal.





Portability.. This is one of the best features of my set up. This thing folds down in a couple mins and can be put under the bed, in a closet, or even put in a car to transport to be played elsewhere. I also own a 24" LCD monitor that has audio out so I can set it up anywhere there is power. I have used it with my xbox 360 and the crummy xbox force feedback wireless racing wheel (discontinued) to play Forza 4. Only so my LeMons racing team can practice Sonoma Raceway which has been missing from the Gran Turismo series for sometime. Forza 4 is a great game, but the wheel options for Xbox 360 are terrible except for the costly ones. This is why I only play racing games on the PS3 and my xbox is collecting dust. To connect the xbox wheel to the stand, I had to use a book as a spacer.. the clamp on it is functional at best and poorly designed.



Well that is pretty much it.. not much to it. Here is a crummy video I made to show off how well it works with the addition of the Gran TurGismo shifter paddles. Enjoy!